I'm a newby to the forum so I hope i've posted is in the correct place. That said, I am doing a refurb on a 1987 Fleetwood Southwind class A. I am looking for a wiring diagram or any help for a Chevy P30 battery isolator, I've looked all over the net and have found that the isolator used with the delcotron alt. is supossed to have 4 terimnals but the one that came on mine only has 3 terminals. [It appears to have been replaced recently by the former owner, who was not very handy. ] The coach and chassis batterys are hooked up to terminals 1 and 3 and the charge wire from the alt. is hooked up to terminal 2. I have not had it on the road since it was purchaced as I've been going through all of the systems on the coach and chassis one by one, and would like to be sure of the charging system as well. Any help will be welcomed.

Welcome to the forum.  A lot of the folks here have the P30 chasis and will answer your question in time.  Right now they're all either working or camping.  I have the P30 myself, but it is with a diesel engine so the electrical is defferent.  Got any pics of your unit?  We love pics.  Also, try the chat night on wednesday.  We get a lot of the technical guys their.

Thanks for the welcome. As far as pics go I'm planing to do a repair on a delamination on this rig and I plan to take quite a few pictures during that procsess. Hopefully it will be helpful to the other members.

Thought I would bump this one up to the top, have you gotten anywhere with your problem?

Sorry it took so long to get back to the forum, took the old girl out for a shake down camping trip. All went well with the rig, ducktape held the delam from flapping in the wind. Main battery and coach batteries seem to be charging but I still feel the the wiring is jury rigged, [missing fuse links, etc.]. I just don't want to let any smoke out of the wiring's insulation if you know what I mean. Thanks for kicking this back to the top, hopefuly someone will know something.

I'm having a problem with my battery isolator also. Got a couple of questions. Is there anyway to test one? If so how? Does the voltage regulator have anything to do with the battery isolator?

The problem I'm having is the alternator is putting out too many volts, figured this out by hooking volt meter to battery. The alternator was putting out 18v until I cut the engine off. From what I know the alternator should only be putting out between 13.5 to 14.5v.

I don't see how the Isolater could influence the voltage.  The voltage regulater in mine is built into the alternator.

Still haven't resolved the problem but I now know how to test a battery isolator. Got this from the RV Doctor.

"here's how to check the isolator using a DC voltmeter. First, measure the voltage at all three terminals of the isolator with the engine completely off. You should be able to read each battery voltage independently on each of the outside terminals. If there is voltage on the center terminal, one of the diodes in the isolator is faulty and the complete isolator must be replaced. (Some VOMs do have a diode test circuit to double check the diodes in the isolator). If voltage is only read on one of the two outside terminals, there is an open in one battery system. Next, start the engine and check the voltage at the center terminal of the isolator; it should be at least 13.8 volts and there should be an increase in the voltage measured at the two outside terminals, though it will be less than the center terminal. If you have access to a clamp-around DC ammeter, you will be able to measure the charging current on the alternator output wire. Additionally, be sure to check all the cable connections at each battery very carefully. I just ran across the same symptom as yours and found a corroded ground cable from the engine battery to the frame ground. If you are sure the alternator is functioning as it should and the isolator tests good, you just may have a cable problem."

So I did this and I'm getting voltage on the center terminal. But just to make sure the RV Doctor knows what he's talking about would someone test their battery isolator to see if they are getting any volts on the center terminal.

Can't do it today, but will check tomorrow morning.

I checked today and I am not getting voltage on the center terminal.  Hope that helps.

Hi jsteiner4,
With the engine off and the ignition off, and we look at the three terminals, the top one had 12.5VDC, the middle had 1.2VDC and the bottom had 12.3VDC.
I hope this helps

Thanks both of you for checking. I've ordered a new battery isolator and going to install it tomorrow hopefully that will solve my problems. I'll let you know tomorrow.

Thanks again.

Well the battery isolator fixed the problem. Got it installed and everything is charging correctly.

Way to go Brian!

What's really funny about all this is the alternator problems I'm having with the 345 were related to the battery isolator to. I just figured I would check the battery isolator on the 345 and sure enough its not working either. What are the odds. Thats just my luck.

Ah, the beauty of multi-motorhome ownership!

Thanks to everybody that responded. I finally just took the time to trace every wire out. [ This was because of a total no charge condition that cropped up.] Every thing was hooked up correctly, I was missing a 50 amp fuse link [ $3.50 at NAPA ]  The cause of my no charge condition?  A corroded fuse holder on the coach was not letting ignition voltage to the alternator. Go figure, 20 yr. old coach. Anyhow thanks to everyone. Next project, Banks Power Pack. Its in two big boxes in my garage, came the day before christmas, wife wouldn,t let me work work on it christmas day. More on this project later.